Sam writes... How often can
friends give a dream? Thats what Martin and Debbie did for us. Whilst the
gang went up Kili, Martin lent us Maggie, the ever-dependable Land Rover,
to go on safari in the bush in northern Tanzania. We decided to head
through open bush from Namanga on the border to Lake Natron on the Rift
Valley, and then south to the magic of Ngorongoro. What freedom, to be at
large under big skies, rolling through the bush.
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So we left the main road, about
30km south of the Kenya - Tanzania border, and just turned into the bush.
The track we followed wound on throughout the day, into Masai country, and
we chatted periodically with herdsmen and farmers as we pottered on
through their lands. In time, after the villages of Kitumbeine and Gelai,
and a camp on the slopes of Mt Gelai, we swung north to Lake Natron,
breeding ground for flamingoes.
Volcanic black ash sand - terrible ground to drive on. This was a
good bit.
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A tremendously dusty drive, everything in the Land Rover coated in
clag, but she kept on slogging away.
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Towering over Lake Natron and the Rift Valley is the active volcano,
Ol Donyo Lengai, The Mountain of God
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The track here was very bad going. We camped here in the shadow of
the mountain. |
After pounding along the
trail for the day, and the bush camp on Gelai (which was a case of
stripping the dust from everything before settling in!), we headed on to
Lake Natron. Initially we were put off - Tanzania seems to be one long
excuse to remove money from foreigners. (Beware, for example, the dodgy
roadblock where you part from 50 dollars in exchange for not much). In
time however we found Riverside Camp, which was a chance to chill out a
bit.
Ol Donyo Lengai
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Stalwart Maggie, pounding through the dust
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The
salt flats of Lake Natron, as we set off to see the breeding
flamingo colonies
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I thought I saw a puddy tat..... lion pugmarks on Lake Natron
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A
lava flow, one of many from the last eruption in the late 80s -
awkward to drive over
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A
termite mound which has been broken open by a predator
- and honeycomb structures inside - breeding arfeas?
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